Philippines coffee is one of the world’s best-kept secrets. Long before the third wave, farmers here were cultivating some of the world’s most distinctive coffee varieties.
So, what’s the story with this far-flung origin? Why are Philippine coffee beans now the beans to watch among specialty coffee circles?
Let me take you on a journey to the highlands and lowlands of this charming archipelago to learn more about how it’s rewriting its coffee story.
Table of Contents
Philippines Coffee: A Brief History
The Filipino coffee journey started with Spanish Franciscan friars, who brought the first Arabica plants from Mexico to Batangas in 1740. Here, the volcanic soils and mild tropical climate proved ideal. As a result, coffee cultivation spread rapidly across southern Luzon to nearby provinces like Laguna and Cavite.
By the 1880s, this “Pearl of the Orient” was the fourth-largest coffee producer worldwide. Batangas remained the coffee capital, shipping beans as far as Spain, France, the United Kingdom and the USA. During this golden era, the Philippines diversified its coffee landscape. Farmers began planting bold and woodsy Liberica coffee from West Africa (locally known as Barako).
But this prosperity was short-lived. In the 1890s, the dreaded leaf rust finally reached Philippine shores, decimating plantations. Worse, this devastation coincided with political upheaval. The Philippine Revolution of 1896 and subsequent American colonization in 1898, shifted the focus toward sugar and coconuts. Like with Puerto Rican coffee, Philippines coffee production collapsed.
Fortunately, the 20th century brought a recovery of sorts. An American-led initiative introduced Robusta in the 1950s, chiefly for its disease resistance. Excelsa coffee also found a niche for the unique flavor it adds to blends.
After the Second World War, output continued to focus on Robusta, which served the local and instant coffee markets. But in the 1970s, the Marcos government attempted to revive the specialty coffee industry. It established cooperatives to expand production beyond Batangas into Benguet and Mindanao. This gave the Philippines a unique opportunity to profit, especially when Brazil suffered devastating frosts.
Later, the Philippines joined the International Coffee Organization (ICO) in 1980. But despite gaining access to international markets, crony capitalism, rampant during the Marcos administration, stagnated coffee production. Because of this, the industry never regained the highs of the 1880s.
Philippines Coffee Production Today
As with many origins worldwide, a specialty coffee resurgence began in earnest in the Philippines in the 2000s. The emphasis lay on heirloom Arabica coffee varieties and sustainable farming in regions like Sagada and Benguet.
Today, the country produces all four major coffee species, a distinction few origins claim. Overall, this amounts to approximately 40,000 metric tons of green coffee annually. Most of it,90 percent in fact, is Robusta from Mindanao.
Despite these efforts, the Philippines relies heavily on imports. It brings in almost 100,000 metric tons annually to meet local demand. These imports have hurt domestic coffee production.
Luckily, the Philippines government is working to reverse this trend. In 2017, Duterte’s administration signed the Philippine Coffee Industry Roadmap. It aimed to boost annual Philippines coffee production from 37,000 to 215,000 metric tons by 2022. While production didn’t reach the stated goals, this initiative sparked meaningful change.
The Philippine Coffee Board, which oversaw this change, ramped up farmer training, seedling distribution and specialty coffee awareness. Under the Department of Agriculture, this body is also overseeing a ten-year replanting program, distributing 150 million climate-resilient seedlings.
Farmers’ cooperatives have also played a key role in the Philippines coffee renaissance. Groups like Benguet Coffee Farmers in the Cordilleras are investing in better processing equipment, farmer training and forming profitable direct-trade coffee relationships.
Slowly but surely, these efforts are paying off, with Sagada’s and Benguet’s high-altitude Arabicas, Batangas Barako and Cavite Excelsa being much sought after.
Specialty Coffee Culture in the Philippines
In the last two decades, Filipino coffee has shifted from an instant coffee to a vibrant specialty coffee culture.
But that’s not to say that the Philippines didn’t have an indigenous coffee culture to begin with. Bold, dark-roast barakokape (Liberica coffee) defines this archipelago’s coffee. It holds a special cultural significance, especially in Batangas.
Older generations remember barako as the drink of choice before days of hard labor. They brew it unfiltered and strong in clay pots or kettles. The sock filter method, common in Vietnam, Thailand, Singapore and Malaysia, is also popular.
Filipinos sweeten their brew with muscovado sugar. This coffee fuels connection during merienda (snack time), kwentuhan (long, meandering conversation time or free time) or after meals.
Today’s Philippines coffee culture borrows heavily from these roots. Local chains like Bo’s Coffee (established in 1996) and international chains like Starbucks also carried on this tradition. As a result, there’s been an explosion of third-wave coffee spaces in Manila, Baguio and Cebu.
By the 2010s, roasters like Coffee for Peace and Yardstick further popularized modern coffee, focusing on single-origin beans from Benguet and Sagada. As with other forward-thinking Asian coffeepreneurs, they held farm-to-cup transparency and cupping events, fostering a community of young aficionados.
Metro Manila became the hub for innovative shops and spaces offering pour-overs, cold brews and local heirlooms.
Post-Pandemic Filipino Coffee Culture
Then, came COVID-19. Far from dimming the Filipino coffee scene, it accelerated and democratized it, launching a fourth-wave coffee boom. In addition, social media amplified these trends, highlighting sustainable, ethical Philippines coffee.
Today, urban cafes thrive as social and work spaces, with a rising focus on local roasters. Likewise, awards like the National Barista Championship promote coffee excellence among youth, enabling them to realize their ambitions.
On average, per capita intake in the Philippines now stands at 2.5 cups daily. This intake encompasses everything from traditional, dark-roast barako brews to trendy and unusual coffee recipes like ube lattes and espresso-calamansi tonics. These pair well with filling silog breakfasts, pandesal (soft bread rolls), suman (sticky rice cakes) and, on special occasions, pan de San Nicholas (buttery, egg-yolk cookies).
Given the hot, humid weather, cold brew and iced coffee trumps hot coffee on any given day. Ready-to-drink and functional coffees are also on the rise.
Filipino Coffee: Growing Regions
In the Philippines, coffee thrives in four main regions. Each brings its own personality to the final cup, shaped by terroir, climate and centuries of cultivation traditions.
Benguet and Sagada (Cordillera)
These mist-shrouded provinces, collectively known as the Cordillera, are Arabica heaven. At elevations between 1,200-1,800 meters above sea level (masl), the cool climate and mineral-rich volcanic soils create conditions that rival any premium coffee origin.
Indigenous Igorot communities cultivate shade-grown coffee here. They intercrop heirloom Bourbon and Typica plants next to rice terraces and pine forests. The result is specialty-grade beans with a bright acidity and delicate floral notes.
This region defines Philippine coffee production at its most elegant. It’s the heart of the archipelago’s Arabica production, driving the country’s specialty coffee narrative.
Mindanao (Davao, Sultan Kudarat and Bukidnon)
If the Philippines has a coffee workhorse, it’s Mindanao. This southern region is the archipelago’s largest coffee producer, stretching across diverse elevations from 400-1,500 masl.
Mount Apo’s volcanic soil, abundant rainfall and tropical biodiversity create ideal conditions for the country’s Robusta backbone. But something exciting is also happening at higher elevations. Here farmers cultivate quality Catimor with surprising chocolate and caramel complexity.
Sultan Kudarat also contributes with unique Excelsa lots, adding to the region’s diversity.
Batangas and Cavite (Southern Luzon)
This region is the birthplace of Filipino barako. Located south of Manila, it sits in the shadow of Taal volcano. Here, mineral-rich soils and a tropical microclimate create the perfect conditions for the Philippines’ most iconic coffee.
At lower elevations (300-600 masl), with distinct wet and dry seasons, Batangas defies conventional coffee wisdom. While most of the world chases high-altitude Arabica, Batangas farmers have opted for bold, unapologetic Liberica for over 150 years.
Nearby Cavite province adds another layer of complexity with Excelsa coffee production. This wonderfully weird species (or sub-variant of Liberica, depending on your viewpoint) offers unique jackfruit and tamarind notes.
The Philippine coffee’s 19th-century golden age began in Cavite, and it’s here that its distinctive identity remains strongest.
Kalinga and Mountain Province
In these rugged northern mountains, coffee isn’t just an agricultural activity, but part of a cultural heritage.
While Robusta is the species of choice, indigenous Kalinga farmers tend ancestral Catimor and Typica trees the same way their great-grandparents did. They also practice shade-grown coffee, integrating trees within traditional rice terraces at 900-1,600 masl.
Kalinga’s cooler temperatures and mineral-rich soils produce Arabica beans with unique complexity. They show stone fruit sweetness layered with herbal undertones you won’t find on any standardized flavor wheel.
Here, tradition meets terroir in the most authentic way possible.
What Does Filipino Coffee Taste Like?
Philippines coffee defies singular definition. Its flavor map is as diverse as its 7,000 islands! Still, I’ll do my best to break it down for you.
Benguet, Kalinga and Sagada high-grown Arabicas have a medium, tea-like body and bright, lively acidity. Expect to taste delicate floral notes (jasmine and citrus blossom) alongside stone fruit (apricot and plum) sweetness. The finish is clean, often betraying hints of brown sugar or honey.
Filipino Liberica (barako) from Batangas and Cavite couldn’t be more different. It’s bold and full-bodied with low acidity.
The predominant flavors include dark chocolate, tobacco and wood, sometimes even anise and jackfruit. The finish lingers long and smoky, leaving an earthy impression. This coffee is intense, unapologetic and utterly unique; you’ll either embrace it or you won’t.
The Robusta from Mindanao and Kalinga is equally bold and heavy-bodied with a muted coffee acidity. It boasts nutty, grainy flavors with hints of dark chocolate and caramel. Although the finish can be bitter, it’s pleasantly grounding, perfect for traditional strong brews.
Lastly, we have the wild card: Excelsa. This coffee from Cavite and Sultan Kudarat, has a medium body with a tart, fruity acidity. Given its unusual flavor, you’ll mostly find it in blends.
How to Buy Philippines Coffee Beans
The good news is it’s relatively easy to buy Filipino coffee nowadays. Several North American specialty roasters now import beans directly from the Philippines.
Look for specialty importers and roasters like Los Angeles-based Boondocks Coffee Roasters, Masipag Coffee, Kalsada Coffee (founded by Filipino-Americans) and Kape Philippine Coffee in Canada.
Also, online marketplaces like Trade Coffee and specialty retailers like Sweet Maria’s occasionally feature Philippine lots.
You may also buy beans directly from the Philippines. Roasters who ship internationally include Yardstick Coffee, Commune and EDSA Beverages Design Group. All offer online ordering, though shipping costs and times vary.
As Filipino coffee is still quite rare here, it’s susceptible to poor-quality offerings or worse, fakes. To avoid this fate, look for packaging labels that specify:
Region of origin: Benguet, Sagada, Batangas, Cavite, Kalinga, etc.
Species: Arabica, Liberica, Robusta or Excelsa
Processing method: Washed, natural or honey
Producer: Farm, estate or cooperative where possible
Harvest date: To get the freshest beans, green coffee buyers should buy shortly after the main harvest ends in February.
Roast date: Buy only beans roasted in the past 1-3 weeks for peak freshness.
Oh, and beware of generic “Philippine coffee” labeling without origin details.
Lastly, mind the price. Filipino specialty coffee prices reflect the limited production and import costs. Expect to pay $18-$30 per 12-ounce (340-gram) bag. Anything less is likely a poor-quality blend with cheap imports.
Final Thoughts: What’s the Future of Coffee in the Philippines?
I hope you’ve enjoyed this short exploration of Filipino coffee!
What excites me most is that this origin stands at an exciting crossroads. Passionate producers are reclaiming heirloom varieties and cooperatives are mastering specialty processing. Even better, a new generation of Filipino roasters are showcasing what makes these beans extraordinary.
But will this archipelago reclaim its place among coffee’s elite origins? Will Philippines coffee rival Colombian, Brazilian or Ethiopian beans in volume? In the near future, probably not.
Aging farmers, limited infrastructure, inconsistent quality control and cheap imports threaten progress. Climate change also poses risks to vulnerable highland plantations.
But that’s not the point. Ultimately, this coffee’s strength lies in its diversity and bold character, volumes notwithstanding.
As global palates grow more adventurous and origin stories matter more than ever, Philippines coffee beans will eventually have their moment. Let’s hope that’ll be sooner rather than later.
Ready to taste coffee history in the making? Seek out authentic Filipino coffees from the sources we’ve shared. Try the audacious barako and explore high-grown Benguet or Sagada Arabica. You’ll be supporting the dedicated producers and roasters writing this comeback story!
FAQs
Historically, yes. The Philippines was the 4th largest coffee producer globally in the 1880s. Today, it’s less famous internationally but gaining recognition in specialty coffee circles.
The four main types of coffee grown in the Philippines are Arabica, Liberica, Robusta and Excelsa.
Traditional Filipino coffee, brewed unfiltered in clay pots or kettles, or with sock filters, is bold and earthy. It’s often sweetened with muscovado sugar and served black or with evaporated milk.
