Azores Coffee: A Mid-Atlantic Treasure Trove

Did you know that Europe grows coffee, Azores coffee to be exact? Before you come at me, it really does!

Azorean coffee boasts a flavor profile like no other. This Portuguese coffee is truly an immersive sensory experience. Why? It spans the full spectrum of bold and chocolatey to mild, sweet and floral. Few coffees from one origin exhibit such a spectrum.

Wanna learn more? Join me unpack why this far-off land is a rising star in the specialty coffee world.

Where Are the Azores?

The Azores are a group of nine islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. They lie about 948 miles west of mainland Portugal and create one of the world’s most remote archipelagos. As an autonomous region of Portugal, they’re also Europe’s westernmost territory.

These nine islands straddle the North American, Eurasian and African tectonic plates and divide into three groups:

They emerged from the ocean a gazillion years ago, developing rich, mineral-filled volcanic soil. This soil would later prove perfect for coffee cultivation.

Although under Portuguese governance, the Azores are closer to the Americas than Europe. Get this: They’re about two-thirds of the way between Portugal and New York City! In fact, they were a crucial stop for the Portuguese during the Age of Discovery.

For coffee lovers, the Azores are at the edge of where coffee can grow in the Northern Hemisphere (latitude 37°N). Only two other origins claim this distinction – Kona, Hawaii, and the Canary Islands, Spain. A fact that makes this rare coffee even more special.

Azores Coffee: A Brief History

Who would have thought that a devastating orange disease would lead to some of Europe’s most unique coffee? Turns out, that’s exactly how the story of Azores coffee begins.

It all starts in the 1850s. The Azores are riding high on their orange trade. These citrus fruits were the toast of Victorian England. As such, wealthy Brits practically fought over these prized “St. Michael’s oranges.”

But then, disaster struck. Brown soft scale disease wiped out orange groves across the islands. This disaster left farmers scrambling for a crop that would save their livelihoods. Enter the coffee plant.

At this time, mainland Europe was sipping on imported beans from origins like Yemen and Indonesia. But some forward-thinking Azoreans thought, “Why not grow coffee here?” Sure, planting coffee at such a northerly latitude seemed about as sensible as opening a beach resort in Greenland. But this island had a secret weapon: a unique micro-climate.

In the 18th century, the Maragogipe variety of Arabica coffee was first introduced to the Azores. This Arabica variety, discovered in Bahia, Brazil, is notable for its large fruit and high quality. It emerged as a natural mutation of the Typica variety and gained attention for its unique characteristics.

To everyone’s surprise, this Bourbon coffee variety thrived in the subtropical oceanic climate with mild temperatures and high humidity. But despite its initial popularity, Maragogipe’s low yield discouraged farmers from adopting it fully until the 1850s. Indeed, these initial Azores coffee plantations played a significant role in birthing other more profitable varieties, such as Pacamara and Caturra.

To add to this, the archipelago’s volcanic soil, humid climate and natural wind barriers created a perfect structure that would continue to ensure good growing conditions. Soon, small coffee plots began popping up across the islands, particularly on São Jorge, Pico and São Miguel.

Azores Coffee Production Today

Fast forward, and Azores coffee is still going strong on these remote islands. Some plants, still producing beans 200 years later, trace their origins to those first South American coffee seedlings.

As it happens, coffee doesn’t earn these islands a significant income. Production is quite low at 200 metric tons annually, with an export volume of 50 metric tons. But it’s not all doom and gloom. Island farmers also rely on a burgeoning tea, wine and dairy industry for a living.

What’s particularly charming about Azorean coffee is how unknown it has been for decades. While the rest of the world embraced various coffee crazes, Azorean farmers quietly went about their business. They concentrated on producing small batches primarily for local consumption. It wasn’t until recent years that coffee enthusiasts began to rediscover this hidden gem.

Currently, there are about 50 coffee producers in the Azores. This number reflects a growing interest in coffee cultivation within the region. Most of the coffee on the islands is of the Arabica variety. During harvest, this coffee undergoes washed, natural or pulped-natural processing.

Recently, a project funded by the Azorean government has begun testing six new Brazilian Arabica varieties to evaluate their adaptability in the local climate. All in an effort to enhance coffee cultivation across the islands.

Instrumental in this, is the Portuguese coffee company Delta Cafés. They have partnered with the local government to support these producers. As a result, Azores coffee is beginning to make a comeback. And to think, we might never have known about this coffee if those orange trees hadn’t caught a bug!

Why Does Coffee Thrive in the Azores?

Coffee thrives in these lush, green islands thanks to the Gulf Stream. This massive ocean current acts as a natural heating system, wrapping the islands in a blanket of warm water.

This, in turn, keeps temperatures remarkably mild and stable.

Winter temperatures rarely dip below 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celsius), while summers stay warm without getting too hot. For coffee plants, this is like having a perfectly adjusted thermostat year-round.

Then there’s the volcanic factor. The islands’ soils are jam-packed with mineral-rich volcanic material. Coffee plants absolutely love such soils. They provide everything Azores coffee plantations need to produce flavorful beans. In fact, you’ll find similar conditions in Hawaii’s famous Kona coffee region.

Humidity also plays a crucial role. The Azores sits in a sweet spot where Atlantic moisture creates a humid environment. Add in a favorable altitude of 656-1968 feet (200-600 meters), and you’ve got conditions that mirror the misty plantations of Colombia, Kenya or Ethiopia. The frequent gentle rains, averaging 49 inches (1,033 millimeters) annually, also mean Mother Nature handles all the watering requirements.

Another lesser-known fact is that the islands themselves are natural windbreakers. Volcanic crater walls, trees and other crops shield coffee trees from harsh ocean winds. This creates what farmers call a “micro-terroir” perfect for coffee growing.

Last, but not least, remember those pesky coffee diseases that plague many tropical origins? The Azores’ isolation and strict agricultural controls have helped keep these pests at bay. As a result, the island is a natural quarantine zone that protects coffee plants. This archipelago truly is a perfect coffee lab in the middle of the Atlantic!

Azores Coffee vs Canary Islands Coffee

While the Azores and the Canary Islands float like emerald specks in the vast Atlantic, their coffee stories differ vastly. The Azores embraced coffee in the late 1700s. Meanwhile, the Canaries’ coffee story is more recent. It took off in the 1950s, and gained momentum in recent years.

What about that all-important factor: location, location location? The Azores sit further north, pushing the boundaries of where coffee can grow. In contrast, the Canaries, nestled at 28°N, enjoy a more coffee-friendly latitude.

However, the Azores have one thing going for them: the Gulf Stream. This warm embrace in the middle of a cold ocean creates a mild, humid climate. The Canaries, however, deal with a drier, more West African climate. Like in the Azores, farmers here have mastered shade-growing to protect their coffee from hot Saharan winds.

In terms of production, both Azorean and Canarian coffee remains traditional and small-scale. Many farmers still use methods passed down for generations. Harvests typically run from September to November in the Azores and March to June in the Canary Islands.

What about the coffee itself? Very different! Azores coffee is smooth and medium-bodied with a gentle acidity and subtle citrus and floral or chocolatey and nutty notes.

In contrast, Canary Islands coffee tends to be lighter, more aromatic and acidic, with a bitter aftertaste and a hint of salinity from the ocean air. It also displays hints of fruit, chocolate or liquorice.

In considering Canarian vs Azorean coffee I’m amazed at how much terroir affects coffee. You’ve got two Atlantic archipelagos under European flags, tackling similar agricultural challenges. Yet, each coffee culture couldn’t be more different. It’s a reminder that in coffee, as in life, there’s more than one path to excellence.

How to Try Azores Coffee

Looking to taste this unique Atlantic island coffee? Let me be honest – getting your hands on Azorean coffee isn’t as simple as walking into your local Starbucks. Still, that’s part of what makes it so special!

If you’re looking to try this European coffee, I’d suggest visiting specialty coffee shops that feature it. Local Portuguese food markets are also nice places to try. You may also visit various online roasters, such as Nicola and Sical, who now ship to the US. Look for Azores coffee from Pico, São Jorge and São Miguel islands, in particular.

In addition, the specialty roaster Delta Cafés is an excellent place to start. Like Coffeeness supports Brazilian coffee farmers in the Mogiana region, Delta supports small producers in the Azores.

This Portuguese coffee brand, which has been operating since 1961, supports farmers through direct trade. In October 2023, they introduced Impossible Coffee, their 100% Azores coffee blend. This initiative supports existing producers and raises awareness and interest in Azorean coffee among consumers.

Failing all that, get yourself some Azorean coffee directly from the Islands. Thankfully, producers like Porto Formoso Tea & Coffee Estate ship tea and coffee internationally.

How to Buy and Store Azorean Coffee

How do you brew some of this liquid gold when you get your hands on it? When shopping, you’ll find two main varieties. Ultimately, this will influence how you brew your coffee:

Once you’ve secured your precious Azorean beans, store them in an airtight coffee container, away from direct sunlight. Also, use them within 3-4 weeks of roasting for optimal flavor.

Finally, never store your coffee beans in the refrigerator in the pretext that they’ll remain fresh for longer. That’s an old wives’ tale! The fluctuations in moisture and temperature can cause coffee to lose flavor and become stale. Worse still, coffee beans are like sponges; they absorb moisture, flavors and aromas. You might end up with a morning brew that tastes like last night’s pot roast!

How to Brew Azorean Coffee

Now, to brewing. My first suggestion would be to embrace the heritage and prepare Azores coffee Portuguese-style. To begin:

Alternatively, you may prepare this coffee using these methods:

Make sure you grind your coffee fresh before brewing. Also, always use filtered water, as heavy minerals can mask the coffee’s delicate profile.

Finally, don’t overdo the temperature while brewing. Slightly cooler water at 195-200 degrees Fahrenheit (90-93 degrees Celsius) preserves this coffee’s unique flavor.

The Future of Azores Coffee

Today, the Azorean coffee industry is in a nascent but promising stage. Although specific financial figures for the overall worth of the coffee industry in the Azores are not readily available, efforts indicate a focus on quality over quantity.

The regional government aims to promote this coffee as a product of excellence, which could enhance its market value significantly over time. This initiative marks a significant milestone, with Azores coffee now recognized for its potential in the specialty coffee world. 

Already this luxury coffee boasts high sustainability credentials, such as organic-grown, shade-grown and Rainforest Alliance distinctions. Awards so far include the Azores Regional Coffee Competition (2019). 

Notably, the regional government is preparing to apply for EU classification for its coffee. Like French champagne and Italian parmesan, this proposed legislation aims to give this single-origin coffee a Protected Designation of Origin status.

This move could further elevate the market value and recognition of Azores coffee nationally. Moreover, it could position the Azores as a unique European and global coffee player.

Final Thoughts: Why Azorean Coffee Matters

In a world of increasingly commercial coffee, Azorean coffee is a testament to the unexpected. It reminds us that great coffee doesn’t always come from the Bean Belt.

More importantly, these nine volcanic islands in the middle of the Atlantic aren’t just about coffee. They’re about preserving a piece of European agricultural heritage that almost nobody saw coming. This could change the stakes for the continent in the fifth coffee wave.

So, the next time you sip on coffee, why not make that Azores coffee? It offers a taste of history, a hint of the unexpected and a reminder that some traditions are worth preserving.